Brian Maynor October 24, 2013

By Brian Maynor
October 24, 2013

 
The blazer has long been cemented as a wardrobe staple both professionallyand casually.  During the cooler mornings and evenings of fall it is the perfect layering piece and provides a higher level of structure anddefinition than a cardigan.

Recently I had the pleasure ofspeaking at a private function that was focused on career-wear and thetopic of blazers featured prominently.   Most of the questions centeredon how to tell if a blazer works for a specific body shape.  Here aresome examples of the various types of blazers available in the marketand tips on deciphering the construction elements to fit your needs:  

1.    Shoulders.  One of the most important elements of your body shape, your shouldersset the stage for everything else.  A strong, elongated shoulder linehelps your waist look smaller and your hips look proportional.  If youare not fortunate to have a naturally strong shoulder line you cancreate one with a blazer.

Most blazers will have shoulder padsof one size or another, but that is not the only element to consider for a strong shoulder.  Another key element is the shoulder seam and whereit falls.  If you have narrow shoulders ideally the shoulder pad willextend slightly past your shoulder with the seam falling on the outeredge of your natural shoulder.  You will be amazed at the impact thosetwo inches make.

2.    Lapels.  With the option to benotched, peak or shawl and all in various widths deciding which one isright for you can seem overwhelming, but don’t give up.  The generalrule is to keep everything in proportion and that is no different here.  You want the lapel width to be proportional to your overall frame andhave it fall in the middle of your shoulder line.  

Traditionalblazers have a notched lapel and they will be appropriate in alleveryday settings.  Peak lapels are more formal and are great forelongating the torso because they pull upwards whereas shawl lapels areonly found on formal dinner jackets and tuxedos and tend to emphasizeround shapes.

3.    Stance.  This is probably the mostrecognizable part of a blazer because it deals with the number ofbuttons on the body.  A three-button suit has a high stance shorteningthe torso by creating a shallow ‘V’, whereas a one or two-button suittypically has a lower stance, which elongates the torso with a deeper,wider ‘V’.

The length of the jacket can also be affected by thestance.  Shorter jackets that sit above the hip are not forgiving somake sure you pair them with a longer shirt.  Longer jackets tend tomake you look shorter, so keep that in mind if it falls below your butt, and remember anytime you enclose something you make it look bigger.

4.    Double-breasted blazers also come in various options with four or six buttons and low and highstances so the same general rules apply, but the most important factoris maintaining the defined waist.  Double-breasted blazers can go shortand boxy quickly, so make sure they maintain separation between the body and arms with an indention around the waist and fall at or slightlybelow the middle of your hip.

Blazers look great on everyone andshould have a prominent place every wardrobe the key is making sure they work for your needs.  Don’t let the options intimidate you.  The bestrule of thumb is to try it on first.  Once you are wearing it then youcan start evaluating if it’s right for you and your shape.

Click on the images below to learn more about the outfit.

I am always curious to hear from you and what you see in the workplace.  Send your questions, comments and pet peeves to [email protected].   Also find each of these storyboards athttp://brianmaynor.polyvore.com with links to purchase each item.

About Brian Maynor

Brian Maynor has built a reputation as one of the leading style coaches inthe Southeast and is quickly expanding his eponymous company, BRIANMAYNOR and his FIND, FLATTER & FLAUNT line of image consultingservices. A professional with a fresh, upbeat and down-to-earthpersonality and boundless creative energy, he works frequently with with local celebrities; Fortune 500 companies and nonprofit organizations;modeling agencies; fashion designers; production companies; recordlabels; media and individuals. A regular contributor to various fashionblogs and online communities, Brian Maynor is one of the most trustedand recognized style experts in the region, utilizing his education andtraining as a broadcast journalist to serve as a style lecturer, emcee,and commentator for over a decade. He has appeared at fashion shows,expos, and charity fundraisers, as well as events with big brands likeBanana Republic, Ann Taylor, Chico’s and Macy’s. His approach isinnovative, creative and fashion-forward, balancing fresh, modern styles with classic pieces to keep one’s look grounded. To learn more, visit http://www.brianmaynor.com.