L. Paul Cline July 2, 2013

By L. Paul Cline
July 2, 2013

Men ask me often, what is in style, 2 button, 3 button, pleats or flat fronts, wide ties, narrow ties, cuffs or no cuffs?  Fashion trends for men actually are far and few between, unlike women’s clothing which changes seasonally.

Men can relax, classic styles are the fashion of the day which has not changed in my lifetime. What does change is cloth weight in wool jackets and trousers and the modern take on the classics from the formality of the Victorian era, the savoir faire of the 1930’s and the skinny detailing of the (1960’s) and apply them to a modern silhouette.

So what elements should you look for?

• The Cut of the Suit

1. A soft natural shoulder that isn’t thick and broad
2. A slim waist fit in the jacket
3. Slim trousers either with no pleats or shallow pleats

• The Fabric / Suit Cloth

Classic clothes in solids with woven options,  pattern mixing classic colors with accent colors.  So men have options beyond the old stand by solid blacks, greys, and navy’s. Harris Tweeds, Houndstooth, Herringbone, Pinstripe, Rope-stripe are options that expand a man’s wardrobe.

So, consider the options before you invest.

How Many Buttons?

The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.

• One Button

A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it’s been a trend before and will go out again. And there’s a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you’re over 6′ 2″, I’d suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.

• Two Buttons

It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.  Options offered are a higher button placement that raises the level of classic to fashion forward.

• Three Buttons

My personal favorite is three buttons which convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit,  it is classic in taste yet fashion forward in look, but 20 years from now will be in fashion.

• Four Buttons or more

Please don’t. I’m yet to see any four button suits offered which truly impress me.

Three Piece Suits 

Let’s face it: the waistcoat has long been a dead item for most men, but thanks to resurgence in its popularity in men’s street wear the suits’ waistcoat is back with vengeance. Well, not quite vengeance but it’s back, it’s subtle and it’s classic. And that means that were witnessing the return of the three-piece suit, and I couldn’t be happier. That’s because the three-piece suit has been one of the most under-utilised parts of a man’s wardrobe over the last forty years.

The three-piece is all about cohesion; forget the mismatching style prevalent in the early parts of the 20th Century and in the 1980s. The return of the three-piece means that the waistcoat has to be conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit’s other two pieces. If you do want to venture outside the realm of three matching pieces, stick to a similar colour palette and avoid any pattern except for stripes; you may want to pair a pinstripe black suit with a pinstripe charcoal waistcoat.  NOTE: Option in custom waistcoats allow the fabric to be the back instead of just the lining.

On selecting the perfect three-piece suit I’d recommend looking for a waistcoat whose V shape breaks somewhere between the sternum and the base of the rib cage. I’ve seen three pieces from the likes of Giorgio Armani which don’t sport the V shape and finish just under the collar, these are going to be a lot harder to wear and ignore the conservative subtlety this revival depends upon. Moreover, such a large waistcoat won’t convey a slim waist as effectively as one with a deeper neck.

• THE SHOULDER

A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men’s suiting as another visual trick – this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.   I prefer the shoulders end where the shoulder bone does, it’s a more natural look and more in trend with our American culture.

• VENTS

This one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.

• LAPELS

Since the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring we see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men’s suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.

That said, notched lapels aren’t out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.

WHICH CLOTH SHOULD YOU PICK

The fabric you buy your suit in will be one of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.

• Wool

The clear favorite for suits, but pick carefully. I’ve seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150’s as it’s often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you’ll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.

• Cotton

Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it’s best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colors which aren’t black and grey, tending towards navy and tan.

• Linen

So many men simply don’t understand linen, but a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid summer days. Shy away from it in browns and wear it in colors such as white and cream and you’ll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.

One final note on linen: don’t be scared of its penchant for creasing, it’s all a part of the fabric’s charm