The Skinny On Plus Size
May 28, 2014By Brian Maynor
‘Plus Size’. These two words are the source of fear and confusion for a lot of people, but it’s completely unnecessary.
When speaking as a style coach and body shape expert this topic is the source of ninety-percent of the questions. People always want to know the special rules or tips for dressing as a plus sized person, and my answer is always the same. “There are no special rules for being plus size.” Here is a breakdown on ‘Plus Size’ that I hope will clarify some of the confusion:
1. The Definition. Plus size clothing, sometimes called ‘Women’s’, is a category of clothing just like ‘Juniors’ and ‘Petites’. The sizes start around 16 and run through 24. For men this category and department are called ‘Big & Tall’.
General sizes of 1XL-3XL are also considered plus size, while 4XL-6XL are referred to as ‘super sizes’ and 7XL-beyond are called ‘extended sizes’.
2. The Shapes. ‘Plus size’ is not a body shape, so there are no special rules you need to remember, just the rules for your shape.
There are six basic body shapes for both men and women that work with the proportions of your chest & shoulders, waist, and hips & butt. Women are either: Hourglass; Triangle; Inverted Triangle; Rectangle; Oval or Diamond and men are either: Inverted Triangle; Trapezoid; Rectangle; Triangle; Oval or Diamond.
You can be any of these shapes and be ‘plus sized.’ When you look at most plus sized models in catalogs or websites they are generally hourglass shapes. They have a defined waist with proportional chest and hips, they just happen to be larger than the average sizing scale. The dressing rules for a plus size hourglass are the same as a size 6 hourglass.
3. The Rules. For every shape, other than the Oval and Diamond, the goal is to define and highlight your waist. Whether you are building up smaller areas or camouflaging larger ones the one constant with these eight shapes is that you have a waist you are trying to make look smaller by balancing your upper and lower body.
With the Oval and Diamond your waist is the widest part, so it doesn’t make much sense to define or highlight it. The goal of these shapes is to camouflage your middle by making your body look longer and thinner. There are several ways you can do this, but the easiest way is by wearing an open coat or sweater in a contrasting or complementary color to your solid colored outfit.
4. The Issues. It is no secret or surprise that plus size shoppers have a fraction of the options available to other sizes. While more brands are extending into this market, particularly online, the department is still under represented as a whole. Some of the most popular brands are Eileen Fisher; Lafayette 148; Jones New York; Max Mara and Lane Bryant. Guys have it a little easier with Polo; Gap; Nautica and Dockers.
In addition to the smaller pool, the clothes are generally made using the same size extrapolation formula the label uses for all their garments. There is one fit model that is the base size and every other size is determined by adding inches to various areas based on a formula. Needless to say this does not produce very flattering or accurate fits for most people.
Fortunately there is hope. Lane Bryant, yes that Lane Bryant, started a mission to change this practice. Lane Bryant and their sister store Catherine’s teamed up for a 3-year project to modernize their garment production by taking the sizes of over 14,000 women to analyze and help them produce better fitting pieces.
5. The Conclusion. The challenge of being plus sized is not with your shape or size, but rather the availability of clothes. And that is a struggle everyone faces.
The universal rule to dressing well is wearing pieces that fit and work with your shape, regardless the size. While that will require some tailoring, the results are well worth the time and investment.
I hope this sheds some light on the enigma of plus size, and shifts the focus away from the number and back on the shape. There should also be a sense of camaraderie with your fellow shoppers in the fact that everyone is searching for the right pieces to fit and flatter their shapes.
Click here or on the images below to learn more about the outfit.
Click here or on the images below to learn more about the outfit.
I am always curious to hear from you and what you see in the workplace. Send your questions, comments and pet peeves to [email protected]. Also find each of these storyboards at http://brianmaynor.polyvore.com with links to purchase each item.
About Brian Maynor
Brian Maynor has built a reputation as one of the leading style coaches in the Southeast and is quickly expanding his eponymous company, BRIAN MAYNOR and his FIND, FLATTER & FLAUNT line of image consulting services. A professional with a fresh, upbeat and down-to-earth personality and boundless creative energy, he works frequently with with local celebrities; Fortune 500 companies and nonprofit organizations; modeling agencies; fashion designers; production companies; record labels; media and individuals. A regular contributor to various fashion blogs and online communities, Brian Maynor is one of the most trusted and recognized style experts in the region, utilizing his education and training as a broadcast journalist to serve as a style lecturer, emcee, and commentator for over a decade. He has appeared at fashion shows, expos, and charity fundraisers, as well as events with big brands like Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Chico’s and Macy’s. His approach is innovative, creative and fashion-forward, balancing fresh, modern styles with classic pieces to keep one’s look grounded. To learn more, visit http://www.brianmaynor.com.
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