To Cork or to Screw? That is the question.

 By Kaitlin Ohlinger

Have you ever wrestled with the idea of a screw cap versus a traditional cork?

Perhaps not. Is it the most pressing or fascinating subject in the world of wine? Nah. But it is worth pondering. Screw caps are still recovering from something of an image problem that they’ve had since their inception. An image problem that is, for the most part, undeserved. And chances are you have that one friend who *insists* that wines with a screw cap are automatically inferior to those with a cork. So if nothing else, lets give that friend a run for his money, shall we?

The science and testing of screw cap enclosures began in the 80’s, according to most sources, but didn’t make it to the global radar until the early 2000’s. Collectively, the wine industries of Australia and New Zealand got together and rallied behind the validity of screw caps. Combined with increasing dissatisfaction with cork, they believed- plain and simple- that screw caps were a better way to preserve the integrity of their wine- and the science was there to support it. Taking a “leap of faith”, these two countries did become the first to use primarily screw caps. Today, an estimated 85% of New Zealand wines and 45% of Australian wines are sealed with screw caps.

It is important to note, at this point in our little conversation, that the use of screw caps was really a decision made by winemakers because they believed them to be superior. Which is interesting, considering that screw caps are commonly perceived as a “cheaper” alternative to cork. Many winemakers still feel this way, and a large reason for that is the issue of cork taint, or a “corked” bottle of wine. Who wants to put time, energy and love into a product that has a small chance of being completely ruined? (Side note- the estimated total percentages of corked wines across the globe are so wildly varied that it’s hard to give a figure that I would consider “correct.” Let’s just say… it happens).

So if a screw cap is a.) Considered by many to be a better way of maintaining a wine’s intended qualities, and b.) Prevents it from being infected with cork taint, or TCA, then why hasn’t everyone gotten on the bandwagon? There are a few reasons. The biggest one, the most challenging one, and the one that I believe screw caps simply can’t overcome is this: tradition. And in turn, nostalgia. Nostalgia is powerful force. Do you remember learning how to open a bottle of wine with a wine key? How it felt so cumbersome and you thought you’d never get it? Remember how proud you were when you got it just right? Admit it, don’t you feel cool when you swiftly and flawlessly open a bottle for friends? Now try to duplicate that feeling with a screw cap. The whole opening experience is a little anticlimactic. There are other reasons to be on “Team Cork”; due to it’s porous nature, cork allows a microscopic amount of air into the bottle that helps the wine evolve, if it is a wine that’s meant to age. You can reuse or repurpose a cork (or 100,000 corks- Pinterest, anyone?!). And you can’t deny that a wine with a cork and a seal does look a little more polished.

So how attached to this tradition are you? Are you going to invest a lot of thought into how you opened your wine, or do you just want to get to the wine? I personally don’t really care if a wine has a screw cap or a cork. If it’s good, it’s good. But I also can’t imagine a world where there are NO corks. That might pull at my nostalgia strings just a bit. Because the first time I really “got it” when it came to opening a bottle of wine… well, I felt like a real grown up. And those sorts of experiences really can’t be measured scientifically.