A Splendid Autumn Day
October 25, 2013
By Tom Poland
October 25, 2013
Go See Campbell’s Covered Bridge—Vintage Americana
I never saw an authentic covered bridge until Clint Eastwood directed and starred with Meryl Streep in The Bridges Of Madison County. Genuine covered bridges in these parts are as rare as hens’ teeth. Several years ago, though, I came across the real deal: a covered bridge up in northern Greenville. It was late afternoon when sunlight comes in so low everything is gold and lustrous but driving is hard. A bit blinded as I rounded a curve, I got a treat as my eyes adjusted—Campbell’s Covered Bridge.
You can see it too. Just make a two-hour, 112-mile drive to Landrum.You’ll find the covered bridge near the small town of Gowensville. South Carolina’s last covered bridge crosses Beaverdam Creek.
Greenville County owns the bridge and closed it to traffic in the early 1980s. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places on July 1, 2009. Major renovations have kept the bridge in good shape.
A bit of history never hurts. In 1909 Charles Irwin Willis built the38-foot long, 12-foot wide pine structure. The bridge was named forLafayette Campbell, who at the time of construction owned 194 acres inthe immediate area. Campbell owned a nearby gristmill too and he let his property be used for the bridge’s construction. (Willis was no dummy.He knew area farmers could better bring their corn to his mill acrossthe creek.)
The Greenville County Recreation District has transformed the surrounding acreage into a park where visitors can picnic, explore the foundations of the old gristmill and home site, wet their feet in Beaverdam Creek, and learn about the area through interpretive signage.
I love the old bridge. Whenever I am in the region I make it a point to go see it.
The first time I saw it I was amazed. I got out and walked inside the bridge, struck by its narrow width, just right for horse-drawn buggies. Through cracks in the wooden flooring, I saw and heard Beaverdam Creek running cold and swift over rocks. Everything was peaceful, the air a bit chilled. I stayed there a while trying to envision the years long ago when old cars and carts rolled through and no one gave a second thought to the bridge’s uniqueness. I’m sure it made for a nice spot for couples, once the busy day settled down, a Bridges of Madison County spot so to speak for lovers. I walked out from the bridge as darkness settled in, and just then a young couple drove up, locals I could tell. They looked at me, a stranger, as if I didn’t belong there, and the truth is I didn’t, not at the moment. I left them to their own ways as night vanquished daylight.
I was glad to see the old bridge still had allure, still had its pull on romantic souls. It will pull on yours too. It’s there. The bridge and surrounding area are quiet, peaceful, and beautiful. Pack a picnic come fall when the leaves burst with color and visit this rare bit of Americana. Keep in mind too that the leaves are soon to sing their song of colors. People debate what’s better: the coast or the mountains. To me, it’s a bit like debating which season you like most: summer or fall. I’ll take the mountains over the coast. And the mountains in autumn are the best of both worlds. You just feel more alive up in the hills. I like the fact that one moment sheer rock walls cut off the world and the next moment an overlook reveals a stunning panorama.
Head for the hills. A splendid autumn day is the time. The sky’s deep blue, and sunlight’s ice-cold clarity makes your heart beat faster. Fall colors, you divine, are one of Earth’s better performances. There’s music in the leaves and you hear their song … up in the land where our last covered bridge endures.
Be sure you take photos of this rare covered bridge. Once you’re ready to move on you’re not far from SC Highway 11, the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway. Look for mountain vistas, handmade quilts, apples, apple jelly, and honey for sale. Return home with great moments to remember.
If You Go …
Campbell’s Covered Bridge
171 Campbell Covered Bridge Road
Landrum, SC 29356
Photos By Tom Poland
Visit Tom Poland’s website at www.tompoland.net
Email Tom about most anything. [email protected]
Tom Poland is the author of six books and more than 700 magazine features. A Southern writer, his work has appeared in magazines throughout the South. The University of South Carolina Press just released his book on how the blues became the shag, Save The Last Dance For Me. He writes a weekly column for newspapers in Georgia and South Carolina about the South, its people, traditions, lifestyle, and changing culture.
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